Hello reader, did I catch you in the middle of something? I hope not! This is a fun one, so come, pull up a chair and catch up.
Upon hitting the Pacific Ocean and coast, I turned south and kept going! I spent the night at Honeyman State Park.
This area is famous for it’s sand dunes and prime access for big sand-dune buggy’s and off-road like four wheeler terrain. I made it up the dunes early while the sun was rising. Beauty that truly knows no limit- huge dunes with a view of the forest and ocean, with the fog rolling in, as far as the eye can see.
Important note- I have finally entered the paradise that is “Hiker/Biker Campsites”. They were in Grand Teton and Yellowstone, but now they’re in every state park :) I LOVE Oregon for this. Sites run less than $10, and usually it’s a shared common space with a bunch of picnic tables and bear boxes. And hot showers at each state park! True heaven and a great way to treat travelers!
Back at the campsite, I dawdled and chatted with my neighbors, a family of three, from Barcelona, who are bicycle touring the Pacific Coast and traveling for a year with their young son. Super inspiring, such kind, adventurous people. I feel so fortunate to spend time with them. They invited me to sit for coffee and nutella toast!! We had the most pleasant morning. I bid adieu to hit the road as they headed for a day in the dunes.
The coastal riding is usually overwhelmingly scenic when you’re along the bluffs and looking at rock islands off the shore. The morning’s are characterized by an oppressive layer of marine fog that (at least for me), chills you to the bone. I’m wearing all my layers and warm socks constantly :’)
The day ended at Sunset Beach State Park, which you guessed it, has HB sites AND hot showers. Life is good on the coast. I spent the evening hanging out with two motorcyclists on an impromptu adventure around forest service roads and the coast. They were from Whitefish, MT, near Glacier National Park. They thought I was crazy. I just noted the similarities in our sense of adventure with a slight discrepancy of mode of transportation.
The next morning was characterized by marine fog that shed quickly as the sun came out! On recommendation from the bikers, I headed 3 miles down the cape to the point to see the coastal vista and sea lion haulouts. The sun helped, as the forest was still thick with fog and eerie but beautiful, and the coast had full sun and blue sky.
The view of the coast was magical, and I even spied a whale spout on the way back but after stopping for a few minutes to watch, I couldn’t seem to find anything :(
The last of the ride was descending down huge coastal bluffs to Humboldt Mountain and beach. While the pictures can’t do it justice, I’ll try to let them speak the thousands of words I attempt to fumble together.
I ran into the first bicycle tourists on the road! Three friends, Norman, Matt, and Ryan, were touring the Oregon coast together. With the HB sites full with hikers and other cyclists at Humboldt, the four of us shared a normal site. This site was much closer to the beach and very roomy.
They had brought some beers and lite dinner supplies. Including me in the dinner festivities, we all hung out telling stories around the picnic table. The beach was beautiful, with a backdrop of the mountain on one side, and big bluffs on the other
I’ve been spending every morning walking around the campsite or beach where I’m staying and I have to say, it’s the greatest routine. Beautiful ways to start each day, breathtaking views, appreciation, and a privilege to see so much of this country in a way not many will.
Today I headed up the road around Humboldt Mountain- which was not that steep but this coastal road is far from flat. If you want to hear something funny, leaving the mountains and McKenzie Pass, I was worried I was going to get out of shape (or at least ‘mountain climbing’ shape) that I was used to from doing at least one or more big passes a day. I had nothing to be afraid of. I think this easily has much more climbing each day than most of my days. This coastal road is a fascinating challenge. There is no such thing as flat- either uphill or downhill. I relish the flat when it comes!
Today took me through more scenic coastal views, as the weather actually slowly feels like it’s a improving. Maybe a degree warmer each day, but I can mark it by how much time I spend riding with my jacket zipped or unzipped. I wonder if meteorologists use that instrument too.
I spent the night at another state park, a mere 7 miles from the border of California. Ryan and Norman came to join as well, and more fun was had around the picnic table. I miss those guys! Great company.
This is a big one! Next, and last state crossing! After riding out in the heaviest fog of the trip, basically raining it was so thick and the condensation was palpable, I made it to California!!
Unfortunately, this area of California didn’t get the Baywatch Memo. There were no white sand beaches or bikinis to be found. Alas, I forge on.
What it did mean, is redwoods!!!!! Crescent City marks the “gate of the Redwoods” for Northern California and it was fascinating. After a(nother) celebratory burger (sundae instead of beer!)
I headed for the Redwood National and State Parks stretch. Little did I know, I’d be spending the next five days calling these redwoods home. I’m constantly overcome with awe and deep spiritual connection to this planet we call home in these trees.
Some quick billboard facts for ya- Redwoods are the tallest trees on Earth. They’re height is a dead giveaway in identifying one- they tower over all other trees. Trees average three HUNDRED feet in height, with some giants growing over three-hundred and sixty feet high. They weigh up to 1,200 tons and can have a base diameter of 26 feet. When I say big, I mean these are BIG trees.
I spent my ride gawking, dawdling, and looking up at the canopy and soaring trunks as I continued south. Words can’t describe the feeling of slowly rolling through this interconnected family and web of life, sprouting out of the ground and towering above. More pictures to do what my vocabulary cannot!
I spent the evening at Elk Prairie, nestled in the heart of Redwoods. I, joking around with the park attendant, asked if I would run into any elk on the way to my site in said “Elk Prairie” campground. She laughed and said “Yes, I think there are some in there now”. I kind of shook my head and said “haha wouldn’t that be crazy!” and cycled away, not sure whether to believe her or not.
She, was indeed not joking.
There. Were. LOTS! of elk.
Just grazing and chilling out, super calm and comfortable around the campers. They were blocking the entrance to my campsite, so I stopped on the lawn, content to watch this majestically beautiful herd just co-exist. People gathered, almost more interested in my funny outfit and gear than the elk. I gave out my classic “I’m Ben Stevens and I’m riding my bike to crazy places because I’m a little nuts and an explorer at heart” speech. People are always curious where I sleep (campgrounds, silly!) and what I eat (peanut butter, of course).
I spent the evening hanging out with a family from Portland, exploring the parks and vacationing together. They invited up for some dinner as they were breaking camp the next day. They had a real campfire going AND even let me cook my own hot dogs!! I was in heaven, to have a fun family to trade stories with (Joanna was from Rochester! She knows the Wegmans way of life!!). I got an extremely hearty and balanced meal of beans, watermelon, chips, hot dogs, marshmallows and smores. A necessary balance to my nomadic lifestyle and heartfelt connection with others on the road. I love making trail family, and am happy to add them to the people who keep me company when times get tough!
The next day had me leaving the redwood channel to enter a more urban area, around Eureka, California. With campsites running out, I had a casual day cycling into the city to load up on supplies for the next few days of madness.
It was hard to relinquish the peace and serenity of the Redwoods to the bustle of Eureka and the very crowded 101. Oh well, such is life. The trees will be back soon! I spent the evening with a lovely Warmshowers, marking my last night in proper civilization before heading off to do a coastal detour. The Lost Coast was my destination, a story for the next post. For reference, Salem’s Lot was filmed here. Home of the vampires!! Stay tuned for a big-league adventure :)
Miss you all, hope we can catch up when all my craziness settles down.
Until the next tale is spun,
Benjamin “Finally Drinking Hot Drinks Because He’s Cold” Stevens
What a lovely post. I read it aloud to dad as we drive to our island campground boat on trailer behind us. Thinking of you as it’s gonna be 40 degrees for next 3 mornings. Definitely warm drinks!!! We do enjoy your stories